With Alfa Romeo Stelvio Quadrifoglio in Umbria, Valnerina

What do we think about when we think about Umbria? Guilt (Montefalko, Sagrantino, Orvie …). The oil (“the best extra virgin olive oil” is of these parts). Tartufi (black, white, white, white on Norcia). Dry messages (devotion to pork and wild boar reaches the peaks of spirituality and entrepreneurship unthinkable elsewhere). Cheese (especially sheep). Legumes (from the lens – the flowering of Piana di Casteluchio, between May and July, are a mosaic of flowers that removes breath – to beans, from Tsetse to Cicerchy). But the Green Umbria is also a territory of water. Thermal waters (14 sources), from source (17 minerals), rivers (seven), lakes (six), waterfalls (nine). Plus those of Rapids and Forre.

“Sister Water” called it St. Francis. Of Assisi. The patron saint of Italy, animals, poets, traders, small scouts, environmentalists and Umbrian. Sister (lists the “poor man” in Cantalum) Useful, humble, precious and clean. But such a humble person would not say that Velino’s waterfalls, as they rushed between 165 meters in height, in a festival of jumps, waves, foam and light blurs a little silk to collide at the bottom of the black throat.

Marble waterfallsEight kilometers from Terni, are the most stage entrance of Umbria’s liquid and transparent secrets. We are at one end of the 209 highway, the Hollnerril, which will end 90 kilometers north, after it was boundless in Marke and reached the macch, intertwined with the ancient flaminies (SS3), Consul of Roma-Vano. To make one of the most beautiful trips to Italy, it is its sweetly excruciating tendency, the sequence of medieval forests and villages, rock and bells, which at the right time are included in the colors (the emerald green of trees and meadows; the pink, the ribs and the gray of the stones) you find here. The Alfa Romeo Stelvio Quadrifoglio – With Its Large Leaves Pinned on the Sides, to Skid the Singularity of A SUV A POWERFUL 510 HORSEPOWER DRINKER ENGINE Implated A stiffness Worthy of Better Cause (The Nürburgring, For Example: Where He did the Record Lap) and Without Paying Attention to Consumption (The Avege on the Display, but also the Less/100 Superport.

“There are 400,000 visitors a year”Says Mauricio Santini, the coordinator of the Marmor Cascated Park. Two thousand hectares of territory and about thirty employees, including fantasy fant elf (also known as Federico d’Asceno), who accompanies the smallest tourists in the animated “Fantaemcursion”. Better than the world of Disney: Here is all true, the fantasy flies from each other from the 300 natural caves on the rock and dives into the mess of black (as rafting rafts do: the marble center is the largest in Umbria).

From Terni to Spoleto are 31 kilometers. “Spoleto is the most beautiful discovery I made in Italy,” writes Herman Hesse to his wife in 1911. The writer of Siddharta It is illuminated by the same (almost, come on) today’s landscape: “Mountains, valleys, oak forests, monasteries, waterfalls”. The stone of the historical center of Spoleto sings: this is the city of the festival of the two worlds, the “open” city, which since 1958 has listened to all the languages ​​of humanity (music, lyrics, dances, prose, cinema, drawing) and can no longer be typical, more Grinds, more Italian.

For about ten minutes, we’re in the Campelo Campelo. To see the sources, those of “Vedovo Clitumno” called from Carducci in I hate barbarS But melancholy is not the absolute sovereign of this silent, shady, fresh place. There is also the joy of Cristiano Asaway, 32, who arrived in 2006 from Piath Namt, Romania. This is the gardener of the sources. “I cut the grass, I arrange the benches, I paint Breciolino,” he says. But he is distracted by Stelvio. In 2008, he bought 156 used. He still had it, with 368 thousand kilometers. He sees us skeptics. “Sources make you live for at least 150 years,” he explains, “also applies to cars.”

Next stop, Folinco. Twenty kilometers, twenty minutes: one kilometer per minute. Because you don’t really speed up this calm flaminy Ghigoro: the villages of the hills are a call and comfort. Pissignano. Treas. There is a Kingdom of Sagrantino near Folinco: five municipalities, a small hectare (670), many producers (350), ancient and characteristic wine. In the neighborhood of Sant’eraclio there is “the best extra virgin olive oil” of 2019 (second Colored oilThe most important world guide): The coast of the organic shelter, of Purple Company. And if there is this well of God around, what will Forinho be?

We doThe former mayor (two terms, two elections in the first round) Nando Mimeth, born in 1953. “The city ended the path of reconstruction after the 97 -year earthquake: we have converted everything and took advantage of every opportunity,” he says with the pride of the craft (politics) that was obliged. The culture, the environment, the food and the wine are the levers that put the city again on their feet “a zip between two seas”, as Mismetti says, but also between two eras: the classic foliko, the first printed copy of The Comedy by Dante (1472) and modern Folinco, innovations of the university’s mechanical and aerospace chains.

COLFIORITO is a mountainous part of Folinco. The 1997 earthquake struck very hard. Roberto Berzelini, 67, who has always lived and only here, sells red potatoes on the street. One euro per kilogram. And lentils. “From time to time, the earthquake I review,” he says, as if he was talking about the invasion of Brigand, hidden in the stain. “Small shocks, fortunately.”

Muccia is 15 kilometers from Colfiorito. We are in Marke, Maceto Province. There is a school in the containers; the clinic; Caritas, Civil Protection and Union centers; police; the bank; post office; The municipality. A symbol of a dirt road of perseverance to resist and loves the crushed village, throwing a stone where there is still the red zone. The shocks that in August 2016 were killed by Amatris touched the old houses here. Those in October hit them entirely: “The skirt turned out to be 90% of the unusable homes – it says that Mayor Mario Baroni – this is still. Today we are recording 700 inhabitants, almost all, before that on October 26th there were 920.”

He does not stop believing that one day they can return. “You have to restart economic activities, it is necessary to speed up the procedures: today practice takes more than a year.” While the Bocelli Foundation School, privately, withdraw it in five months: on June 26 it will be opened. But woe to surrender. Tourism? The mayor has an idea, he swears he is not provocative: «Earthquake weekend. Beds in local containers and specialties. To try what it means .

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